Day 2: 2 Mosques, 2 Churches, and 1 Grand Bazaar, Eliza Menser

On our second full day in Istanbul, we met at 8:45 am to visit the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque or Küçük Ayasofya Camii. 

This building was originally designed as a church when it was constructed between 527 and 536. According to legend, former Byzantine emperor Justinian I ordered its construction to express his gratitude to St. Sergius and St. Bacchus. While Justinian I was awaiting his execution, the saints appeared in a vision and proclaimed his innocence, saving his life. The church was in use until 1397, when it was converted into a mosque.

Interestingly enough, we were able to find evidence of the mosque's past function as a church. Although many Christian images have been stripped away or covered up, some signs of the mosque's history still remain today. 

We also had the opportunity to learn more about Islamic practices such as ablution (a cleansing ritual performed before prayers) and the significance of the prayer niche and staircase to heaven in a mosque. A water basin (made from a Roman sarcophagus) for ablution is pictured above. 

We then had free time to explore the Grand Bazaar and buy lunch at a nearby cafe. The bazaar, which houses approximately 4,000 shops, is known for its spices, luxury items, and artwork. Negotiating with shopkeepers on prices is also an important part of the local culture

Following our time at the Grand Bazaar, we visited the Süleymaniye Mosque. The site includes a courtyard, four minarets used for the call to prayer, and an open mosque with an impressive dome. 

Süleymaniye the Magnificent, the fourth sultan of the Ottoman Empire, commissioned the construction of the mosque. The imperial mosque was completed in 1557 by Mimar Sinan and dedicated to its patron, Süleymaniye. 

The light fixtures in the mosque include lamps as well as empty ostrich eggs, which are used to deter spiders from building webs. This is a way for mosque caretakers to keep out spiders without killing them. Since spiders are holy in Islam, it has become traditional practice to avoid killing them unnecessarily. 

For a change of pace, we traveled to two churches in the Balat district of Istanbul. The Sveti Stefan Church pictured above is a Bulgarian church that dates back to 1859. It was constructed in order to meet the growing demand for Bulgarian Orthodox churches in the area. This is also known as the "Iron Church" since its outer walls are made entirely of iron! It is much more enclosed that the mosques we toured previously and includes typical Christian imagery of biblical figures. 

The second church, St. George's, is a Greek Orthodox church in the area. It is also the home of the patriarch of the Greek Orthodox Church. We visited this site spontaneously in order to compare the two churches. We viewed mosaics, paintings, and an iconostasis comprised of gold

To finish off the day, we walked around Balat and explored the shops. This area has recently become a hub of commercial activity and includes coffee shops, restaurants, and antique stores. It also provides insight on local culture and seems less tourist-oriented than other districts. The visit to Balat was a great way to end the day and hints at the religious and cultural diversity within Istanbul. Each district has a different atmosphere and offers an entirely new set of experiences.